Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi

Serves: 2

Destiney Bartoletti

1 January 1970

Based on User reviews:

50

Spice

54

Sweetness

58

Sourness

42

mins

Prep time (avg)

5.1

Difficulty

Ingredients:

8 tbsps

Butter (sliced)

2 tsps

Water

Directions:

1

Testing the cheese (the day before you make the gnocchi): Check the cheese for wetness

2

If you are lucky enough to have an individual basket-drained ricotta—you'll see the basket imprint or dimples on the cheese—it may be sitting in a little whey; in this case, slide it out of the container and wick away the surface moisture with a dry towel

3

With any ricotta, place about 2 teaspoons of the cheese on a dry paper towel and wait for about 1 minute

4

There will always be a little wet spot under and around the cheese, but if the cheese has thrown a wide ring of moisture, it is too wet to use as is

5

Place it in a strainer, or double-wrap in cheesecloth, and suspend over a deeper receptacle to drain for 8 to 24 hours, refrigerated

6

Cheesecloth is more efficient, as it also wicks moisture from the cheese while gravity does its job of draining

7

You can also speed up the draining operation by cinching the cheesecloth tight and squeezing some of the moisture from the ball of cheese

8

Check the cheese for wetness

9

If you are lucky enough to have an individual basket-drained ricotta—you'll see the basket imprint or dimples on the cheese—it may be sitting in a little whey; in this case, slide it out of the container and wick away the surface moisture with a dry towel

10

With any ricotta, place about 2 teaspoons of the cheese on a dry paper towel and wait for about 1 minute

11

There will always be a little wet spot under and around the cheese, but if the cheese has thrown a wide ring of moisture, it is too wet to use as is

12

Place it in a strainer, or double-wrap in cheesecloth, and suspend over a deeper receptacle to drain for 8 to 24 hours, refrigerated

13

Cheesecloth is more efficient, as it also wicks moisture from the cheese while gravity does its job of draining

14

You can also speed up the draining operation by cinching the cheesecloth tight and squeezing some of the moisture from the ball of cheese

15

Making the batter: Beat the ricotta vigorously, then smash a little cheese against the side of the bowl with a soft rubber spatula

16

If you can still make out firm curds, press the cheese through a strainer to break them up

17

Stir in the eggs

18

Melt the 1 tablespoon of butter—with the chopped sage, if using—and add to the batter

19

Add the nutmeg or lemon zest, if using

20

Add the Parmigiano and salt and beat the whole mixture very well

21

This is what makes the gnocchi light

22

You should have a soft, fluffy batter

23

Beat the ricotta vigorously, then smash a little cheese against the side of the bowl with a soft rubber spatula

24

If you can still make out firm curds, press the cheese through a strainer to break them up

25

Stir in the eggs

26

Melt the 1 tablespoon of butter—with the chopped sage, if using—and add to the batter

27

Add the nutmeg or lemon zest, if using

28

Add the Parmigiano and salt and beat the whole mixture very well

29

This is what makes the gnocchi light

30

You should have a soft, fluffy batter

31

Forming and testing a sample gnocchi: Make a bed of flour about 1/2 inch deep in a shallow baking dish or on a sheet pan

32

Scrape the sides of the bowl, mass the batter, and smooth its surface

33

Use a spoon held at an angle to shallow-scoop out 2 to 3 teaspoons of batter

34

Use your fingertip to push the almond-shaped scoop of batter cleanly from the bowl of the spoon onto the bed of flour

35

Shimmy the pan gently to coat the sides, then flip the gnocchi with your fingertip to coat the top

36

Lift from the flour and cradle and rock it in your palm

37

Don't squeeze it

38

You should have a dusty oval pod

39

As long as the general shape is uniform and rotund, don't worry that the gnocchi has a few wrinkles, dimples, and bumps

40

To check the batter, poach this first gnocchi in a small pot of simmering well-salted water

41

It will initially sink, but will then swell, roll, and bob to the surface

42

Maintaining the quiet simmer, cook until the gnocchi is just firm, usually 3 to 5 minutes from the time it floats, depending on the cheese and the size of the gnocchi

43

Don't boil hard, or the gnocchi may explode

44

If, even at a gentle simmer, the gnocchi spreads or starts to decompose, the cheese was probably too wet

45

This can usually be corrected by beating a teaspoon or so of egg white into the remaining batter

46

If the batter was very fluffy[,-CUT] but the sample seems heavy, beat in about 1 teaspoon beaten egg

47

In either case, poach another sample to make sure the fix is successful

48

Taste the sample for salt, and adjust the batter if needed

49

Make a bed of flour about 1/2 inch deep in a shallow baking dish or on a sheet pan

50

Scrape the sides of the bowl, mass the batter, and smooth its surface

51

Use a spoon held at an angle to shallow-scoop out 2 to 3 teaspoons of batter

52

Use your fingertip to push the almond-shaped scoop of batter cleanly from the bowl of the spoon onto the bed of flour

53

Shimmy the pan gently to coat the sides, then flip the gnocchi with your fingertip to coat the top

54

Lift from the flour and cradle and rock it in your palm

55

Don't squeeze it

56

You should have a dusty oval pod

57

As long as the general shape is uniform and rotund, don't worry that the gnocchi has a few wrinkles, dimples, and bumps

58

To check the batter, poach this first gnocchi in a small pot of simmering well-salted water

59

It will initially sink, but will then swell, roll, and bob to the surface

60

Maintaining the quiet simmer, cook until the gnocchi is just firm, usually 3 to 5 minutes from the time it floats, depending on the cheese and the size of the gnocchi

61

Don't boil hard, or the gnocchi may explode

62

If, even at a gentle simmer, the gnocchi spreads or starts to decompose, the cheese was probably too wet

63

This can usually be corrected by beating a teaspoon or so of egg white into the remaining batter

64

If the batter was very fluffy[,-CUT] but the sample seems heavy, beat in about 1 teaspoon beaten egg

65

In either case, poach another sample to make sure the fix is successful

66

Taste the sample for salt, and adjust the batter if needed

67

Forming the remaining gnocchi: Use the same spoon-and-finger technique to form the rest of the gnocchi

68

I usually form them in groups of 4 to 6, placing them all at the same angle, and a few inches apart, in the bed of flour, then shimmy the pan to coat all of them at once; don't leave them sitting too long in the flour, or they will absorb too much

69

Keep scraping the bowl and smoothing the surface of the batter to permit smooth scoops

70

As with the sample, roll each gnocchi in your hand

71

Arrange them on a sheet pan lined with a flour-dusted sheet of parchment paper or wax paper

72

Be sure that the individual gnocchi are not touching one another

73

You can poach the gnocchi right away, but if you refrigerate them uncovered for about an hour, they will firm up, making them easier to cook and handle

74

(They will keep for up to 8 hours that way

75

) Use the same spoon-and-finger technique to form the rest of the gnocchi

76

I usually form them in groups of 4 to 6, placing them all at the same angle, and a few inches apart, in the bed of flour, then shimmy the pan to coat all of them at once; don't leave them sitting too long in the flour, or they will absorb too much

77

Keep scraping the bowl and smoothing the surface of the batter to permit smooth scoops

78

As with the sample, roll each gnocchi in your hand

79

Arrange them on a sheet pan lined with a flour-dusted sheet of parchment paper or wax paper

80

Be sure that the individual gnocchi are not touching one another

81

You can poach the gnocchi right away, but if you refrigerate them uncovered for about an hour, they will firm up, making them easier to cook and handle

82

(They will keep for up to 8 hours that way

83

) Cooking the gnocchi: Place the 8 tablespoons of butter and the 2 teaspoons of water in a 12-inch skillet; set aside

84

Bring 2 to 3 quarts water to a simmer in a wide pan, 10 or more inches in diameter, so the gnocchi won't crush each other too much as they push to the surface

85

A sauté pan, flared brasier, or saucier pan will work, as long as it is at least 2 inches deep

86

Salt the water liberally—about 1 teaspoon per quart

87

Add the gnocchi one by one, adjusting the heat to maintain the simmer

88

Dip your fingertips in water if you find they are sticking to the gnocchi, but don't fret if the gnocchi stick a little to the paper

89

Do avoid holding the tray of gnocchi in the steam

90

Cook the gnocchi as you did the sample, until just firm, 3 to 5 minutes from the time they float

91

Meanwhile, as soon as the gnocchi float to the surface, place the pan of butter and water over medium heat

92

Swirl the pan as the butter melts and begins to seethe

93

As soon as the butter is completely melted and has turned into an opaque pale yellow sauce, turn off the heat

94

Swirl the pan a few more times

95

Lift the gnocchi out with a slotted spoon or skimmer, slide into the ready skillet, and roll in the warm butter sauce

96

Serve instantly in warm bowls

97

Place the 8 tablespoons of butter and the 2 teaspoons of water in a 12-inch skillet; set aside

98

Bring 2 to 3 quarts water to a simmer in a wide pan, 10 or more inches in diameter, so the gnocchi won't crush each other too much as they push to the surface

99

A sauté pan, flared brasier, or saucier pan will work, as long as it is at least 2 inches deep

100

Salt the water liberally—about 1 teaspoon per quart

101

Add the gnocchi one by one, adjusting the heat to maintain the simmer

102

Dip your fingertips in water if you find they are sticking to the gnocchi, but don't fret if the gnocchi stick a little to the paper

103

Do avoid holding the tray of gnocchi in the steam

104

Cook the gnocchi as you did the sample, until just firm, 3 to 5 minutes from the time they float

105

Meanwhile, as soon as the gnocchi float to the surface, place the pan of butter and water over medium heat

106

Swirl the pan as the butter melts and begins to seethe

107

As soon as the butter is completely melted and has turned into an opaque pale yellow sauce, turn off the heat

108

Swirl the pan a few more times

109

Lift the gnocchi out with a slotted spoon or skimmer, slide into the ready skillet, and roll in the warm butter sauce

110

Serve instantly in warm bowls

111

Serving Suggestions: The mild flavor of the ricotta marries well with many other flavors and ingredients, especially sweet, subtle, or nutty ones

112

Whatever the companion, it should be tender and delicate—like the gnocchi themselves

113

Try serving the dumplings with a few leaves of sage, arugula, or spinach wilted in butter, or roll in melted butter with just-cooked baby carrots and fresh chervil

114

Or pair with tender flageolets finished with extra-virgin olive oil and black pepper

115

Or fold in matchsticks of just-cooked zucchini; its subtle flavor becomes clearer next to these gnocchi

116

In the spring, we offer them with barely cooked peas, tiny favas, or finely slivered asparagus, or all three

117

During summer, we match them with fresh white corn kernels cooked in butter with basil, or scatter them with chopped nasturtium blossoms

118

When tender-skinned Sungold Sweet 100 tomatoes are at their sweetest, we halve them, warm them in extra-virgin olive oil with basil, and toss them over the gnocchi

119

In the fall, fresh wild mushrooms slivered, stewed, and finished with white truffle oil are delicious with the gnocchi, and in the winter, whenever we have black truffles in house, we shave some generously over the dish

120

The mild flavor of the ricotta marries well with many other flavors and ingredients, especially sweet, subtle, or nutty ones

121

Whatever the companion, it should be tender and delicate—like the gnocchi themselves

122

Try serving the dumplings with a few leaves of sage, arugula, or spinach wilted in butter, or roll in melted butter with just-cooked baby carrots and fresh chervil

123

Or pair with tender flageolets finished with extra-virgin olive oil and black pepper

124

Or fold in matchsticks of just-cooked zucchini; its subtle flavor becomes clearer next to these gnocchi

125

In the spring, we offer them with barely cooked peas, tiny favas, or finely slivered asparagus, or all three

126

During summer, we match them with fresh white corn kernels cooked in butter with basil, or scatter them with chopped nasturtium blossoms

127

When tender-skinned Sungold Sweet 100 tomatoes are at their sweetest, we halve them, warm them in extra-virgin olive oil with basil, and toss them over the gnocchi

128

In the fall, fresh wild mushrooms slivered, stewed, and finished with white truffle oil are delicious with the gnocchi, and in the winter, whenever we have black truffles in house, we shave some generously over the dish

129

Variation Spinach & Ricotta Gnocchi Prepare the batter as above

130

Warm an additional tablespoon of butter in a 10-inch skillet over low heat

131

Add a few handfuls of spinach leaves—about 2 ounces

132

Salt lightly and, stirring and folding constantly, cook until the spinach is completely wilted but still vibrant green, 1 to 2 minutes

133

Slide onto a clean towel, cover with another towel, and press to extract the moisture

134

(The spinach will bleed green into the towel

135

) Peel off the spinach and chop into bits the size of fresh thyme leaves

136

Don't chop fine, and don't purée, or you will sacrifice the nice texture and burst of flavor it promises

137

Beat the spinach flecks into the prepared batter, then form and cook the gnocchi as described above

138

Prepare the batter as above

139

Warm an additional tablespoon of butter in a 10-inch skillet over low heat

140

Add a few handfuls of spinach leaves—about 2 ounces

141

Salt lightly and, stirring and folding constantly, cook until the spinach is completely wilted but still vibrant green, 1 to 2 minutes

142

Slide onto a clean towel, cover with another towel, and press to extract the moisture

143

(The spinach will bleed green into the towel

144

) Peel off the spinach and chop into bits the size of fresh thyme leaves

145

Don't chop fine, and don't purée, or you will sacrifice the nice texture and burst of flavor it promises

146

Beat the spinach flecks into the prepared batter, then form and cook the gnocchi as described above